| advanced mixology |
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| RUM VARIETIES AND THEIR REGIONS by Shawn Soole |
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Rum and other cane spirits are basically made by the distillation of fermented sugar and water. Most rum comes from regions with sugar cane as its main horticultural product; it is fermented from cane juice, concentrated cane juice, or molasses. Molasses is the sweet, sticky residue that remains after sugarcane juice is boiled and the crystallized sugar is extracted.
Most Rums are made from molasses, as molasses is an unneeded by product of sugar Production. Molasses is over 50% sugar, but it also contains significant
amounts of minerals and other trace elements, which can contribute to the final flavors.
Rums made from cane juice, primarily on Haiti and Martinique, have a naturally smooth palate.
Depending on the recipe, the "wash" (the cane juice, or molasses and water) is fermented, using either cultured yeast or airborne wild yeasts, for a period ranging
from 24 hours for light Rums up to several weeks for heavy, full varieties.
Rum is distilled in the same manner as all other spirits, boiled and then the alcohol vapor caught
and condensed. The choice of stills does, however, have a profound effect on the final character of Rum. All Rums come out of the still as clear, colorless spirits. Barrel
aging and the use of added caramel determine their final color. Since caramel is burnt sugar, it can be truthfully said that only natural coloring agents are used.
Lighter Rums are highly rectified (purified and blended) similar to vodka production and are produced
in column or continuous stills, after which they are usually charcoal-filtered and sometimes aged in old oak casks for a few months to add a degree of smoothness.
Most light Rums have minimal flavors and aroma, particularly those brands that have been charcoal- filtered. Heavier Rums are usually distilled in pot stills, similar to those used to produce Cognacs and Scotch whiskies. Pot stills are less "efficient" than column
stills and some congeners (fusel oils and other flavors elements) are carried over with the alcohol, when drinking aged, amber rum you want a few flavors to come through from the distillation process. Some brands of Rum are made by blending pot and column
distilled Rums in a manner similar to Armagnac production.
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White Rums are generally light-bodied (although there are a few heavy-bodied White Rums in the French islands). They are usually clear and have a very subtle flavors profile. If they are aged in oak casks to create a smooth palate they are then usually filtered to remove any color. White Rums are primarily used as mixers and blend particularly well with fruit flavors.
Golden Rums, also known as Amber Rums, are generally medium-bodied. Most have spent several years aging in oak casks, which give them smooth, mellow palates.
Dark Rums are traditionally full bodied, rich, caramel-dominated Rums. The best are produced mostly from pot stills and frequently aged in oak casks for extended
periods. The richest of these Rums are consumed straight up.
Spiced Rums can be white, golden, or dark Rums. They are infused with spices or fruit flavors. Rum
punches (such as planters punch) are blends of Rum and fruit juices that are very popular in the Caribbean. Añejo and Age-Dated Rums are aged Rums from different vintages or batches that are mixed together to insure a continuity of flavors in brands of Rum from year to year. Some aged Rums will give age statements stating the youngest Rum in the blend (e.g., 10 year old Rum contains a blend of Rums that are at least 10 years old). A small number of French island Rums are Vintage Dated.
The Caribbean is the epicenter of world Rum production. Virtually every major island group produces its own distinct Rum style. Barbados produces light, sweetish
Rums from both pot and column stills. Rum distillation began here and the Mount Gay Distillery, dating from 1663, is probably the oldest operating Rum producer in the world.
Cuba produces light-bodied, crisp, clean Rums from column
stills. It is currently illegal to ship Cuban Rums into the United States.
The Dominican Republic is notable for its full-bodied, aged Rums from column stills.
Guyana is justly famous for its rich, heavy Demerara Rums, named for a local river, which are
produced from both pot and column stills. Demerara Rums can be aged for extended periods (25-year-old varieties are on the market) and are frequently used for blending with lighter Rums from other regions. Neighboring Surinam and French Guyana produce similar full-bodied Rums.
Haiti follows the French tradition of heavier Rums that are double-distilled in pot stills and aged in oak casks for three or more years to produce full flavored, exceptionally smooth tasting Rums. Haiti also still has an extensive underground moonshine industry that supplies the voodoo religious ritual trade.
Jamaica is well known for its rich, aromatic Rums, most of which are produced in pot stills.
Jamaica has official classifications of Rum, ranging from light to very full-flavored. Jamaican Rums are extensively used for blending.
Martinique is a French island
with the largest number of distilleries in the Eastern Caribbean. Both pot and column stills are used. As on other French
islands such as Guadeloupe, both rum agricole (made from sugar cane juice) and rhum industrial (made from molasses) are produced. These Rums are frequently aged in used French brandy casks for a minimum of three years. Rhum vieux (aged Rum) is frequently compared to high-quality French brandies.
Puerto Rico is known primarily for light, very dry Rums from column stills. All white Puerto Rican Rums must, by law, be aged a minimum of one year while dark Rums must be aged three years. Trinidad produces mainly light Rums from column stills and has an extensive export trade.
The Virgin Islands, which are divided between the United States Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Island. Only the US Virgin Islands still produce Rum, predominately making light, mixing rums from column stills, although there are some fine dark and aged
sipping Rums made by the most significant producer Cruzan. These Rums, and those of nearby Grenada, also serve as the base for bay Rum, a classic aftershave lotion.
Guatemala and Nicaragua are noteworthy in Central America where a variety of primarily medium- bodied Rums from column stills that lends themselves well to aging. They have recently begun to gain international recognition.
Brazil produces vast quantities of mostly light Rums from column stills with unaged cane spirit called Cachaça (ca·sha·sa) the best known example.
Venezuela makes a number of well-respected barrel-aged golden and dark Rums.
The United States has a handful of Rum distilleries in the south, producing a range of light and medium-bodied Rums that are generally marketed with Caribbean names.
Canada’s 300-year-old tradition of trading Rum for dried cod fish continues in the Atlantic Maritime provinces of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia where golden Rums from Antigua, Barbados, and Jamaica are imported and aged for five years. The resulting hearty Rum is known locally as Screech.
Europe is primarily a blender of imported Rums. Both the United Kingdom and France import Rums from their former colonies in the Caribbean for aging and bottling. Heavy, dark Jamaican Rums are imported into Germany and mixed with neutral spirit at a 1:19 ratio to produce Rum verschnitt. A similar product in Austria is called Inlander Rum.
Australia produces a substantial amount of white and golden Rums in a double- distillation method utilizing both column and pot stills. Rum is the second most popular alcoholic beverage in the country after beer. Light Rums are also produced on some of the islands in the South Pacific such as Tahiti.
Asia Rums tend to follow regional sugar cane production, with white and golden Rums from
column stills being produced primarily in the Philippines and Thailand. |
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| THE RISE OF RUM by Shawn Soole |
| SCOURGE OF SAILORS OR NECTAR OF THE GODS |
With most spirits, each has its own sordid past of shame, public indecency and moral corruption. But as the new world evolved so did our spirits, they moved from the back alleys, bath tub joints and boot legging hideouts to state of the art distilleries. While the spirits evolved some of the old impressions of yesteryear still lingered in the minds of the drinker.
Rum is no exception to these historical indifference with sordid tales of rum runners, pirates, and the slave trade while modern tales of teenage angst, late night binges in the headlights of a Camino by the local waterhole still sear in peoples memories. But rums image is getting a huge transformation in the form of beautifully balanced, crisp blancos and rich,
creamy anejos. Very quickly more and more examples of the Caribbean’s finest export are making their way into the bar and onto the hippest bars cocktail lists.
Rum is becoming more popular within the bartending community because of its amazing versatility. What other spirit can be gentle sweet white rum to thick, smoky dark rum with everything in between. Rum is distilled from molasses, which is derived from sugar cane. Sugar cane was originally from the Canary Islands, but was introduced to the West Indies by Christopher Columbus. The word rum is believed to come from a number of sources, two of which are rumbustion meaning
uproar & rum bullion meaning rumpus (probably from what happens when rum was consumed). The other, is Latin for sugar, saccharum. Whatever the meaning of the name, the word rum has been dotted throughout history that many other spirits cannot contest to.
It is thought that the first spirit distilled in the US was in fact rum, distilled in Boston from molasses imported from the West Indies. Rum can be distilled anywhere where sugar cane is readily available. By the mid eighteenth century, there were nearly one hundred distilleries dotted throughout the Caribbean, each producing their own style of rum. Each country has a distinctively different style of rum making, from the smooth “single barrel” styles of Nicaragua, to the smoky styles of Jamaica. With white, dry rums to 12 year old full bodied sippers, the list is endless.
When you think of classic Caribbean cocktails you start thinking about Daiquiris, Mojitos and Batidas. They all use rum as their main component; they are refreshing, cool and the hippest thing to drink at the trendiest bars. But rum has more versatility than just the classics; white rum can replace vodka in cocktails while darker rums can replace scotch and whiskies. Your creative abilities are endless and people are starting to realize this as well, Vinnie Jones and his Bacardi Mojito ads had a huge hand in the
push for rum drinking.
Mixologists are now getting on the rum band wagon as well. Chris Guthrie from Elysium in Brisbane, Australia says “I love rum, it is easily my favorite spirit, so many different styles and tastes make rum the most versatile spirit in my opinion, from a light white Cuban style rum in a mojito to a heavier aged rum from Jamaica in a treacle or Mai Tai. Rum is definitely the king of spirits, so much history as well.” Rum is now making a significant impression on mixology throughout the funkiest bars. Next time you’re in that funky little hot spot, ask for a aged rum on the rocks or a mojito and join the latest trend in spirits. |
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BACARDI CARTA BLANCA |
| Clean, crisp and versatile. The main ingredient in Bacardi and Coke, it is said that a Bacardi and Coke is sold around the world every 2 seconds. Although this product is used in almost every classic cocktail, don’t be afraid to use the aged rums to give the drinks a little but more complexity. |
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APPLETON ESTATE |
| Appleton Estate V/X Jamaica Rum is an exceptional blend of several rums of varying types and ages that have been aged for up to 10 years. It has a rich entry and a long, full finish. |
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SAILOR JERRY’S SPICED RUM |
| As soon as you open the cap on this Virgin Island rum based spiced rum, the waft of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves slaps you in the face. On the palate it is smooth, creamy and exhibits the most spice I have ever tasted. |
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FLORA DE CANA 7YR OLD |
| Premium, full-bodied rum aged seven years to achieve a rich mahogany color and a smooth flavors. This is the next step on your burgeoning rum education. Drink this neat or on the rocks with a nice cigar. |
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FLORA DE CANA 12YR OLD |
| If you become a rum connoisseur, this is what you will want in your collection. Its Flor de Cana’s superior, award winning full-bodied twelve years old. It has a rich amber color and the flavors you expect, butter, toffee and cinnamon. Enjoy this one slowly on the rocks or neat. |
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BACARDI 8 |
Smooth and creamy, another afficinado rum. Flavors of rich caramel, chocolate and spice with just a hint of tropical fruit.
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CAPTAIN MORGANS |
| Medium amber, dark gold in color. Reminiscent of toasted almonds, cream pie, mocha. Mild texture. A gentle yet brisk feel on the palate. Extremely flavorful, but sweeter nuances dominate spices. Light, easy finish. |
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| MOJITO |
CAIPIRINHA |
SCORPION |
MAI TAI |
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The mojito’s beginnings are shaded with prohibition, rum running and Cuban communism. The story goes that during prohibition, hundreds of wealthy Americans were travelling from Miami to Cuba to drink at the many non prohibition bars. Bars like El Floridita where the Daiquiri and Ernst Hemmingway became famous and of course the birth place of the Mojito, Bodeguita del Medio. I have heard rumors that del Medio uses at least 35 bunches of mint a day, that’s a hell of a lot of Mojito’s. It is thought that the Mojito is an adaptation of the classic Mint Julep, a mixture of bourbon, mint and soda. Whatever its origins, it is becoming a classic of the cocktail scene, when properly made is extremely pleasurable.
Ingredients
2oz of White rum
8 mint leaves
½ oz sugar syrup
¾ lime
Top up with soda.
Now this is a quick and efficient way of making the drink, the real way asks for soaking of the mint leaves in the rum for 15 minutes. In a highball glass muddle lime, roughly torn mint leaves and sugar syrup. Add other ingredients, ice up and give it a good stir. |
Brazilians drink about two billion liters of Cachaca a year, that would make this cocktail the national drink. Cachaca is a roughly distilled cane spirit in the similar category as rums, bars that specialize in Caipirinha are called Cachacerias in Brazil. When the cocktail came to the modern bars, it was nearly impossible to get Cachaca, it was substituted for vodka and the Caipiroska was born. Now Cachaca is widely available and the Caipirinha is making its own splash on the modern day bar scene.
Ingredients:
- 2 oz cachaça
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 lime (cut into chunks)
- ice cubes
Garnish: lime wedge or wheel (optional)
Muddle lime with sugar in a rocks glass. Fill the glass with ice. Pour cachaça and stir. Garnish with a lime wedge. Be careful not to over muddle the limes, the rind tends to impart bitter tastes when over muddled. This is a simple, refreshing South American staple that can be made at home or enjoyed in the local cocktail hot spot. |
A cool refreshing drink which was probably a variation on the classic Mai Tai. Simple yet complex. Perfect for summer.
Ingredients:
Juice of half a lime
1 1/2 oz orange juice
3/4 oz brandy
3/4 oz light rum
3/4 oz dark rum
1/4 oz triple sec
Lime wedge for garnish Squeeze the juice into a Boston glass, add other ingredients and shake. Pour over ice into a highball glass and garnish with a lime wedge or the biggest, gaudiest 70’s style garnish you can find. Both would work fine. |
There are always two camps on who originally created the Mai Tai. Trader Vic or Don the Beachcomber, both were famous for creating famous rum cocktails and being collectors of hard to get Caribbean spirits. My personal belief is that the Mai Tai was invented by Victor Bergron, better known as Trader Vic's. Around 1944, Trader Vic was serving some friends on a visit from Tahiti, he made this cocktail up and they exclaims “Mai Tai – Roa Ae” meaning “Out of this world – the best” Even if it isn’t 100% correct, its still a romantic story to tell to guests.
Ingredients:
- 2 oz 17yr old J. Wray Nephew Jamaican Rum
- 1/2 oz Curacao
- 1/2 oz Orgeat Syrup
- 1/4 oz Rock Candy Syrup
- Juice of 1 fresh lime
Basically a punched up Daiquiri, I have seen Mai Tai’s simply made like the one above and then ones with a million ingredients in them. I prefer this version, pour the ingredients over shaved ice in a double old-fashioned glass, shake it well, add one spent lime shell and garnish it with a sprig of fresh mint. |
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